VIA CASSIN/RATTI – TORRE TRIESTE

Opened in 1935 by Riccardo Cassin and Vittorio Ratti, this route offers another classic option on Torre Trieste. The pitches are generally easier but more consistent than the adjacent Carlesso route. The rock is somewhat friable, especially in the initial part, but has been cleaned through frequent repetitions.

Difficulty:

VI, 2 VI+ sections, A0 and A1 (or VII and VIII-)

Elevation Gain:

600m to Rifugio Vazzoler + 80m to the start + 600m for the route (700m total length). 21 pitches.

Timing:

9 hours

Approach:

From Rifugio Vazzoler, follow the road to Pian delle Taie, then leave it for the path leading to Van delle Sasse until reaching a scree. Ascend the scree to the beginning of the ledge.

1.15 hours to the start from Rifugio Vazzoler, (2 hours from Capanna Trieste to the start)

Gear:

The route has some pitons, but additional gear is necessary.

Descent:

Considered the most challenging descent on Civetta, with a total of 10 rappels in chimneys and channels. Two 50m ropes are required. The rappels are equipped, but caution is advised, especially regarding falling rocks.

4 hours to Rifugio Vazzoler or 4.15 hours to Capanna Trieste

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